Hi there!
I work with Discovery Channel Canada's Mighty Trains. Is anyone here an english speaking expert about trains in vietnam? Or is there someone you can recommend?
Thank you!
felicia
This is my experience along with some personal opinions.
I'm not an expert, and some will likely disagree with my 'advice', but it's worked for me:
This is an official website of the Vietnam national railway system:
The first thing you should know is that the internet is overflowing with websites you'll find if you Google "Vietnam Railways".
Except for the link I shared (and one other I can't locate at the moment) all others are travel agents who inflate the price of a ticket up to, and even in excess of, ten times what it costs to purchase tickets in a train station.
They are like visa agents in that they charge whatever the market will bear.
On the website I shared, online purchases and train route information are accessed through the dropdown link to "customer guidelines".
A captcha check will verify you "to purchase tickets", but once you have passed the test, you can check out seat availability and pricing without having to pay anything.
I've never purchased online from the official website, so I can't tell you how well that system works, or how the ticket is actually issued (maybe email or will call at the station, but that's speculation).
I personally confirm general availability of tickets online at least one day ahead of my departure date, and then I go to the station just to physically purchase the ticket(s).
You must have your passport or a copy of it with you, so if staying at a hotel that "holds" your passport, you must ask to use it.
I believe it's cash only at the station.
I've never tried using a credit card.
I also haven't noticed any ATMs in the 5 stations I've visited, so I consider coming prepared with Vietnamese cash (膼么虁ng) a necessity.
The boarding ticket is imprinted with your seat number AND train car number, so once you've been allowed through the gate to get on your train, you look for the number of the car and proceed to the conductor waiting nearest that car.
For instance, if your ticket is for car 8, but the nearest conductor is standing at the end of car 7, that's where you will enter and work your way inside to car 8.
There is official information that greatly limits the amount of luggage you take on board, but in reality, you can take whatever you (or a porter/helper) can manage to carry onto the train.
I personally have my trusted driver identity an 'official' porter to help me at the station. I tip in advance at least 鈧5,000 per bag (though in reality, I usually give 鈧10,000 per bag).
Someone like user @Ciambella can tell you what you "should" pay, but whatever you pay, and whether or not you pay in advance, it's important to settle the matter before handing over your bags to the porter.
Otherwise, you end up with a nasty scene train side when the porter demands twice the amount you are offering.
I also give a tip to the conductor, because the porter will probably only be allowed to hand your bags up to you as you board the train, and without the conductor helping a little, you'll be hard pressed to move multiple bags down the corridor to your cabin.
IF you are traveling with multiple bags, I definitely recommend the soft "seats" (actually they are berths) as you can always put some things on the seat with you if the train is full and your cabin mates have already taken up the available storage space, including the floor.
Don't hesitate to store a large suitcase under the window table, if that spot is still available, because any Vietnamese travelers who join you in your cabin will definitely take advantage of that spot for stowing their own belongings.
First come, first...
The food system is very similar to getting Vietnamese street food:
A cart will come by with fresh-cut fruit portions wrapped in cellophane, plus canned/bottled beverages and prepackaged snacks/chips, candy, etc.
Separately, at meal time, what can best be described as a 'rice cart' will be pushed through by two people.
These are much like the "C啤m" curbside restaurants seen everywhere in Vietnam.
You will be offered a plate of steamed rice and (hopefully in English) told you options for meat & vegetable items.
Just as with street vendors, don't hesitate to ask for more than one meat item.
You will be charged accordingly.
When you purchase your ticket, you will know if you have an upper or lower berth.
I prefer the lower because it's difficult for me to climb up and down.
However, on my last train ride a few weeks ago, a couple with two children joined me in the cabin, and it was impossible to keep the kids out of my face for much of the time.
At that moment I wished I was in an upper...
More about seating options available on this website (NOT an official government site):
As is discussed in various threads on this site, the Vietnamese do not share the Western tendency to value personal space, so be prepared to be magnanimous and gracious as your space is invaded, otherwise the experience will be miserable.
I will say that only the little child attempted to crawl into my berth with me, and the otherwise inattentive mother quickly put a stop to that.
There are electrical outlets to charge smartphones, etc, and WiFi in some stations (Danang has it) but not on the trains I've used, so be prepared to use some data.
Bottled water is available from the snack carts.
Depending on the car you are in, there may NOT be a Western toilet available, meaning, you will have to squat over an opening in the floor.
You can always walk to another car and look for the sign "Western Toilet".聽
Train cars always point in the same direction in reference to the engine.
So cabins are always on the right, which means the window opens to the west on southbound trains and to the east on northbound trains.
For example, to comfortably view the scenic coastline between 膼a虁 N膬虄ng and Hu锚虂 from a cabin, the northbound route beginning in Danang is the best option.
There are windows in the corridors, but ALL window glass is usually dirty, so pristine photographs may be impossible to obtain.
If you tipped the conductor on boarding, you won't need to tip again to get help disembarking at your destination.
Just be prepared to get your bags to the exit the conductor designates at least 15 minutes before arrival.
You can also ask the conductor to flag down a porter for you when you are unloaded.
That way you will know you have someone authorized to do the work.
If someone is coming to meet you (a courtesy car driver, etc) they probably won't be allowed to meet you train side, so you'll need a porter to handle extra luggage.
Tip after your luggage is loaded into the car/taxi, giving whatever you gave the porter who helped you at your station of origin.
As with everything in Vietnam, your experience will be tempered by your expectations.
If you expect something similar to the wonderful European rail experience, or even the acceptable Amtrak service in the United States, you'll likely be disappointed.
However, if you go forth expecting very little except a way to get from one place to another, you may be pleasantly surprised at how much you enjoy the ride, especially if you don't travel with a lot of luggage.
Feel free to send me a private message if you need to follow up on any of this.
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